Friday, April 5, 2013

Viewing the Metal Prints

Tall Sunflower Print in Low light
Tall Sunflower Print in Flood Light









Tall Sunflower Print at Angle in Flood

Viewing Metal Prints:  These prints reflect light in a directional way.  Viewing straight on
with a top light does not necessarily yield the best view.  I have decided that they
look better in low light which is directional.  Stronger light sometimes makes them look
dark.  
Thin Ice Print Flood Light
Thin Ice Print Low Light









They "wink" at you as you walk through the room and look at them.  Each print has
a different surface so each is unlike the others.  

Sunrise Print Low Light
Sunrise Print Flood Light










Green Heron Print Low Light

 Some of them look fairly "normal" in
good light.  Those are aluminum matte silver, green heron, and aluminum satin white, stones.

 
Green Heron Flood Light
 
 
Stones Print
The ones that "wink", see top, are aluminum satin silver, tall sunflower print, aluminum brushed silver, thin ice print, aluminum satin gold, sunrise print.
I think that the "wink" group would definitely catch attention.  




My favorite was Aluminum
matte silver, the green Heron




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Thursday, April 4, 2013

Metal Prints Retrospective V

Burr After Cutting
The burr is raised almost vertically after cutting.  It requires work before painting the edges.  I have concluded that the 80 grit sandpaper on a sanding block is the way to bevel the metal and the mat underneath.

Beveled Edge
You can see what a nice edge the sandpaper makes for the paint.


Painting Edges:  I think that the paint does not adhere to the metal part of the edge
as well as it adheres to the edge of the mat to which it is laminated.  Gentleness is
a virtue in handling the prints.  After all steps were finished I came back with
another coat of Print Shield to protect the surface of the print and well as the paint
on the metal part of the bevel.

Painting the Edge
 The width of the paint on the surface is, of course,
controlled by the angle at which you hold the tip of the paint marker to the surface.
I tried to keep that width to a minimum but was forced to widen it on the one print with
ink chipping along the edge. 

Sharpie Water Based Paint Marker
  I really like using the Sharpie Water Based Paint Marker for
this job.

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Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Metal Prints Retrospective IV

Thin Ice Print
This one is on the brushed aluminum.  They said it was for textures of which this image has a lot.  Carol liked this and wants to hang it but has not decided where.

Corner Before Straightening
The corners require special attention.  They may require straightening
after cutting.  I found I could straighten with just finger pressure. 

Corner After Straightening

Wavy Edges
This occurred only on two edges of one print.  I am unsure whether this was caused by too much pressure on the file while beveling the metal or a defect in a piece of mat.  It might have been the
adhesive on the back of the metal, also.

Adhesive:  I ordered the metal with adhesive already applied to the back.  One came
without.  It was the brushed silver sheet. I think that I read it was unavailable
backed with adhesive.  I used the spray adhesive that I used for the faux metal prints
and found it very effective.  It was Scotch Photo Mount.  It is acid free which might
not be needed with these prints.  I roughed the back of the metal with steel wool
before spraying on the adhesive.

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Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Metal Prints Retrospective III

Sunrise Print
I thought this image perfect for the aluminum satin gold.  That metal with the gold reflectance really makes the colorful sky pop.  It is in the "wink" group.

As in the previously discussed in faux metal prints.  I mount
the print on black mat.  The black goes toward the wall.  Once, the print is
mounted I cut the image out.  Cutting through the metal was a different process.
I was, however; able to use mostly the same tools.  I cut them with my Altos
cutter.

Start To Cut 1/4 inch From The Edge
 I found that it was best not to cut the top edge as I do cutting mat.

Ruined Edge At Corner

I plunged my blade at about 1/4" from the edge and made the cut.  I then would use
my utility knife to cut back to the edge.  It made a much cleaner cut.  The most
critical cut was the last one.  There were no buffer edges.  I believe that my
procedure covers that problem.

Cutting Corner With Utility Knife

 I started out using a metal file to bevel the
metal edges. 

Filing Off the Burr on the Print

 I used my sanding block for the mat on the back.  That worked well, on
at least two prints.  I then had one that went wavy on the edges after I beveled
it. 


Wavy Edges on Two Sides


Close up shots revealed that mat layers appeared to be separating.  I am unsure
if I used too much pressure on the file or if the mat was defective.  Later in the
process I began using my sanding block instead of the file on the metal side and all
worked well.  The corners require special attention.  They may require straightening
after cutting.  I found I could straighten with just finger pressure. 


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Monday, April 1, 2013

Metal Prints Retrospective II

Green Heron Pint
This is my favorite print of them all.  It is printed on Aluminum Matte Silver metal.  It is not one to wink at you as you walk across the room but it has the feel of an old print that has been there for years.  Of course, it has not.  I think that part of the attraction this print has for me is the choice of image to print on the metal.  I think the two complement each other.

Booksmart Store sells a different brand of print protectant.
I decided to use Print Shield by Premier Art since I had it on hand and I did
not have the extra money to buy theirs.  It worked fine as far as I can see.
Using such a product is imperative with these prints because the ink is lying
on top of the metal and must be protected.  Even with several coats of the pro-
tectant the prints scratch easily. I experienced some ink chipping but only on one of the metals.  I don't know if it was the metal surface, the substrate, my method
of beveling the edges, or what.  I could make the bevel wider to cover the chips
in all but one case.  I like to get at least two coats of Print Shield on the print
before the cutting, see below.  I think that I am less likely to damage the printed
surface during the process with it on there.

Pealing Edge Before Bevel
Maybe the chips are all part of the charm.  This metal is aluminum satin silver.  As I mentioned above, I don't know why this occurred.  

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Sunday, March 31, 2013

A Cave

A Cave
This is a cave at Malabar Farm.  The stones near the entrance have been moved.

Cave Inside
The Inside is lit by light from above.  

I have had this one hanging in my room for several years.  I love the rocks and the way they are lit.  

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