Mounting the Print

Honey Bee Print

I have other prints in the "pipeline" but they are not ready to photograph.

I had a few observations to share in regards to the mounting process.  I am feeling more and more in control of it.  I am using the new, to me, Scotch Acid Free Spray Adhesive.  I have a homemade spray booth, designed as I developed the process. 

Secure Top and Bottom

I spray the mounting back first.  I secure it top and bottom and spray.  I don't let the tape cover much of the surface, just enough to hold the weight.

Press in Fresh Tissue

Once the back is sprayed I set it aside and press a fresh tissue in place.

Print Paper Ready for Applying Adhisive

I found that I needed to tape the print paper once top and bottom, one each corner, and three on long sides.  Otherwise it will blow during spraying and allow adhesive on the unprinted surface.  

Glued Surfaces Pressed Together

I am currently using mat material as the backing.  I was out of backing and found out that it has only buffered surfaces not the core.  There is an acid free version available but I will need to order 25.  I wanted to use unused acid free mat first.  The one on the image above was light brown.

Cut the Tape to Release

I have learned that I must look at a top corner and a long side when aligning the two surfaces.  I noted earlier that perfect alignment is not essential.  You can trim the edges if need be.  I am feeling more in control of this process as I may have mentioned earlier.  The areas without adhesive because of the tape will be trimmed off later.  I am anxious to get one done using this new adhesive to see how it holds up. 

I found that I can't get paper mounted on foam-board through my printer.  It is too thick.

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Metal Prints

Dandelion Print

Carol helped me with the background on this one.  She has a good eye for color.

 

Mix Epoxy/Hardener

Push Epoxy/Hardener Into Outline

I outlined the mounting block on the back of the mount making its location after epoxy application much easier.  I wanted to keep the epoxy inside the lines.

 

Keep Epoxy Inside the Lines

I weighted the mounting block while the epoxy cured.  

Weight the Block while Epoxy Cures

Bumpers Protect the Wall

I did some reading about Epoxy the other day.  After doing so, I am inclined to think that it is not acid free.  I fear that in time it will permeate the backing and affect the print.  I am thinking about what adhesive to use in its place.  I don't think I have the answer as yet.

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Metal Paper Prints

Honey Bee Print

I don't know if this print has any art value but it is a trophy for me.  Both bees are sharp even down to the pollen on their bodies.  I really like it

Sanding Block

Bit and Back of Mount

I have chosen to use nominal 1x4 pine for the mount.  I have had suggestions of other means of mounting but presently I am still using the pine for the standoff properties.  I have been using nominal 4x4 pieces for the square prints and 4x8 for the oblong prints.  The extra length gives me the choice of mounting it horizontally or vertically on the back.  I can use it to mitigate any warp in the backing of the print.  I find that using a woodworker's brace and bit allows me to back drill the hole eliminating splitting.  I stop drilling when the point clears the back surface and drill from the back side.  The holes line up and it makes a neat job.

Locating the Hanging Point

I use the same 1/3 rd distance from top to bottom that I use for framed prints.  Of course, I center the point.

Hole in the Mount Goes Over the Located Hanging Point

I tried not drilling the mounting block all the way through but opted for drilling it though because locating it on the back was greatly simplified.  I just center the hole over the location mark I made on the back.

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